Amsterdam. To the uninitiated, the name conjures up images of John Travolta riding in a car with Samuel Jackson, discussing the “little differences”. Images of people getting high in coffeeshops and prostitutes dancing in windows in the Red Light District are the primary highlights. Yet, it’s so much more.
Three words of advice to the visiting tourist: be very aware. If you only see traffic stateside, you might be surprised. The initial ride into town is a brief introduction to the rules of the road: just do what you can. Lanes are more of a suggestion here than a rule, and bicyclists are everywhere. If you’re not paying attention crossing the street, you could quite easily get clobbered. But somehow, it all works out. In the US this would be chaos.
The first thing you may notice when you hit the streets is the smell, unfortunately. Urine and feces are the cologne of the streets, which combined with the occasional whiff of marijuana, become a quite familiar scent during your stay. It’s not a constant smell, so much as an occasional reminder. You get used to it, or you stick to cleaner streets.
Three more words of advice: rent a bike. Rent early, rent often. We didn’t, and may have built more character that way, but screw character and save your feet. Bicyclists trump all. Right of way is a suggestion for them, even with traffic lights. Bike path, sidewalk, street — it’s almost as if they say, “What are you going to do? I’m on a bike.”
Perhaps the most notable feature of Amsterdam is the canal system. Call me a romantic, but I love canals. They just make the streets feel more European somehow. Plus, they make a great navigational aid. When you get to Amsterdam, learn to start picking directions based on canals. You might be amazed at what they term a street.
Trivia on the name Amsterdam: they built a dam on the river Amstel, hence the original name Amsteldamme. The canal system made it ideal for trade, and most foreign shipments were routed through there, making it one of the most important cities for trade in the old world. This perhaps explains its ranging diversity and tolerance for all people: the European melting pot, so to speak. I only wish tolerance worked as well in all parts of the world. I dreaded returning to the hack and slash partisan politics and subtle bigotry of the States. (Don’t get me wrong: I love the United States of America. It’s still a land of great opportunity and culture. We just could still learn a thing or two about true tolerance of others.)
Most people are content with visiting two locales on the trip, before hitting the coffee houses: the Anne Frank House, and the Van Gogh Museum. It’s like doing pennance to being a cultured person, before getting seriously wasted. If that’s your thing, that’s fine, but realize this: there’s a lot more to Amsterdam than that. More than just coffeeshops and hookers, even. Some other places you may or may not visit:
- Amsterdam’s Historich Museum: a great city history, but a little long winded.
- Vondelpark: nice park in the city near the shopping district, with a young and hippyish crowd.
- Deck of NEMO: probably not worth the 2.50 euros to enter, but best view of the city.
- Stelelijk Museum CS: if modern art is your thing, this is the place to be. If you hate po-mo, run away!
- Oosterpark: another nice park, but more for older folk and families.
- Tropenmuseum: see how the Dutch plundered the world back in the day!
"Cafès" are bars. "Coffeeshops" are places that sell marijuana. So where do you get a cup of coffee? As it turns out, almost anywhere. Not just any coffee, mind you: good coffee. I wish the US would pick up the Dutch’s knack for good java in almost every location. We’d found bad coffee, but it tended to be the exception, not the rule. Even the crappy in-room coffee maker was a capuccino / espresso machine. I hadn’t found a place that wouldn’t serve me up a capuccino. Try doing that at a bar in Boston.
The dining is exquisite. The shopping is intense. Oh yeah, there’s something about people getting high and such and loose women in Red Light, but that misses the point.
So what’s the big deal? What’s so great about Amsterdam, if you’re not a stoner or looking for a 50 euro “suck and f*ck”?
“The little differences.” It goes back to that car with John Travolta and Samuel Jackson, discussing what’s so great about Amsterdam: “They got the same sh*t we got over here, it’s just different.”
It starts with the people. They’re nice. They’re nice almost to a fault. It’s like they’ve taken the whole notion of tolerance, ingrained it in a few generations, and really made it a way of live. They’re polite, they speak good English (in addition to their Dutch, of course), and are totally non-judgemental. Frankly, it’s a bit unnerving at first, like these folks are too good to be true. They’re not all idealistic liberals; they have liberals, they have conservatives, they have moderates. Just like over here. Unlike over here, they all get along just fine.
Did I mention the tipping? I hate tipping. In Amsterdam, it’s fairly painless. If you don’t want to tip, don’t. Most prices have a gratuity built into the price (though they don’t list it separately anywhere). How do you tip? Simple. When they tell you the price, say, 8.50 euros, just round up to the next euro, and say “make it nine” and hand them your money. Or, if you have large bills, round it up to the next five, e.g. hand them a fifty and say “make it ten”. That’s it. Or, don’t do it at all. It doesn’t matter. That’s really nice. Much nicer than the sliding scale weird unspoken rule we have over here.
Plus, the whole experience is like an introduction to European culture. A nice one, being that the people are very pleasant, and they all speak English (and don’t care that you don’t speak Dutch). You walk thin, canal-lined streets, dodge a whole mess of bike riders, and generally just relax.
There too many reasons to list on why I love Amsterdam, some of them intangible. Visiting there makes me want to travel more. I had a lot of fun this trip, and hope to some day visit again.